Before I fitted the electrical power meter I noted down some of the important components fitted on the PCB. They are as follows:

Holtek HT1621B – LCD Driver
Mixchips MXM11P62 – An 8-Bit RISC CPU with 24-Bit ADC
SunnyQi K24C02 – 2K Serial EEPROM
FQD 2N60C – N Channel MOSFET

I fitted an PZEM-051electrical power meter to monitor battery voltage and current output.

It uses an 8-bit microcontroller with a 24-bit ADC connected to a 100A/75mV current shunt.

It’s not waterproof so I intend to 3D print a suitable case with handlebar mounts.

The original bottom bracket began to make grinding noises so I intented to strip and regrease it however it was beyond service.

A new old stock Shimano BB-UN26 was found and fitted into the cleaned up frame.

Whilst the frame has mudguard eyelets, the rear ones are taken up with the torque arm so I looked for an alternative that still offered near full wheel coverage.

I selected a set of Zefal Classic MTB plastic guards that mount on the brake bridges.

The supplied mounting bolts are rather long so I shall replace them in time with a shorter pair.

With all the recent rain they have gotten a good workout and have significantly reduced the road spray.

The original cantilevers would have been sufficient if they were not broken. The plastic collars hold adjusters which soon crack when exposed to the elements.

I looked for a modern alternative but after learning about brake pull ratios I decided the new levers would work better with Shimano ‘V-brakes’.

These were fitted without issue and provide significantly better brake feel.

The first road test was a success with nothing getting caught up or falling off. Next task is to fine tune the brakes and saddle height etc then take it for a longer ride.

Weights:
Orginal Bike = 14 kg
Electrified Bike = 23.7 kg
Electric Rear Wheel (inc tyre etc) = 7.8 kg
Original Rear Wheel (inc tyre etc) = 2.5 kg
Battery (inc mount) = 3.9 kg
Controller = <500g

A typical conversion kit comes with meters of cable for the various sensors and a frame bag to store the motor controller within.

I’ve done a quick cable tie job to keep everything out of way but in time I shall cut down the cables and use waterproof quick release connectors.

A quick tip for when fitting the rear wheel is to make sure that the cable is not facing upwards like this.

If I leave it in this configuration it will provide a nice channel for water to run in into the motor so I shall flip it next time the wheel is removed.

The conversion kit came with new brake levers that contain microswitches for cutting out the motor when you brake. The original brake levers were the one-peice type that is integrated with the gear shifters so I had to buy separate shifters to use the new levers.

Basic Shimano triple levers with rapidfire triggers.

The rear wheel was test fitted and luckily only required a slight springing of the dropouts.